The HD140 digital multimeter from Beckman Industrial is another in the “heavy-duty” series, very similar to the HD110 in a previous article. Unlike the HD110 however, this is a 20,000-count 4½ digit model with RMS-responding AC capability.
Unfortunately I can find no information on it other than the fact it shares a service manual with the 4410 model. Presumably the internals are the same, except that the HD140 has the extra-sturdy safety yellow enclosure.
This unit arrived with a small problem in the two least-significant digits. Some segments were very dim or flickering. This is the classic “faded segments” problem that often plagues older instruments with liquid-crystal displays. It is usually caused by contamination on the contact surfaces of the elastomeric connector (a.k.a. zebra strip) that couples the very low-current drive signals from the printed-circuit board (PCB) to the glass LCD. This problem is often affected by mechanical pressure on the LCD. In other words, you can squeeze it and make it look better or worse.
Mere Alcohol Doesn’t Thrill Me At All
A quick cleaning of the PCB pads, connector strip, and the glass LCD contact surface with isopropyl alcohol (IPA) usually clears up the faded segment problem, just as it did here. The simple cleaning procedure doesn’t warrant a lengthy explanation, so let’s just have a look at the restoration process from start to finish, and then take a good look at how it’s made.
Missed It By THAT Much
I’m not very impressed with the extra digit of resolution in this unit. It tends to “bobble” quite a bit, even for a very stable input. It is normal for a DMM to flicker between two sequential values on occasion, but this one tends to make excursions both up and down by 1 count. Not a huge problem, but it does not instill confidence in the device’s precision. Without documentation, I can’t say for sure this unit meets its accuracy specifications. The extra digit of resolution makes it hard to appear “spot-on”, but with an error of 0.06% at 5VDC, I would hazard a guess that it is in good shape.
Many DMM models have a simple calibration procedure that involves the use of a single low-voltage DC reference level (usually around 90% of full-scale) and a single trim potentiometer to adjust the unit’s basic DC measuring ability. The accuracy of the rest of its functions will then simply depend on the tolerances of components like the precision resistors used in the voltage divider network. Others have a more complicated set-up. This particular model falls into the latter category.
The HD140 has 3 variable resistors and 3 variable capacitors. None of them are labeled. The trim caps are there to compensate the voltage divider network at AC frequencies higher than just 50 or 60Hz mains. Proper adjustment requires the manufacturer’s recommended calibration procedure, and a means to generate the stable reference signals required. Lacking both the procedure documentation and the necessary equipment, no effort was made to adjust this unit’s calibration.
DMMCheck calibration check results for this Beckman HD140:
|Ohms||100Ω||0.1006K||0.0006K with leads shorted|
Current consumption was measured at 1.42 mA on both AC and DC function settings. The low-battery annunciator comes on at a battery voltage of 7.15V. Accurate measurements were still possible down to 5.00V. Open-circuit voltage on the 2KΩ (diode-check) range was 3.88V, enough to illuminate and measure the Vf of a red LED.
Looks pretty dam accurate to me and it washed up a blooming treat 🙂
Ive had cheap-n-cheerfull meters with a dodgy zebra strip, cleaning didnt work, i then resorted to applying thin strips of sticky parcel label to the inside of the plastic pushdown part.
Just needs a tiny bit extra pressure to an old strip and works fine, yes its a bit bodgy but when all else fails you have to pack it a bit.
That battery compartment was the most stupid i have ever seen, mad!!.
Hmm plastic fantastic…..:-( ive put a cable/zip tie around split tubes and then applied hot glue to keep it in place, bodge bodge lol 🙂
And for missing tubes a hacked up pen tube becomes a stand in.
It’s interesting that the exact same fantastic plastic bit failed in my other specimen from the HD series. It is a tough box, except for those screw posts.
Parcel labels and pen tubes. A must for any repairer’s toolbox. Zip ties and hot glue though, too easy, that’s for amateurs. 🙂
I have a Beckman HD 140 that has developed a fault in reading AC voltage. AC 200 scale is normal for my routine tests of wall outlet voltage. The multimeter still tests resistance just fine, so the leads are still serviceable. The unit was opened and found an oxidized fuse in use. Cleaned fuse, holder and saw no change. Fuse has continuity. General cleaning was done while the case was open, but to no avail on the AC voltage measuring issue. Could a chip be at fault?
Does Beckman do diagnosis over the phone, or do I need to send the multimeter to Beckman or another reputable repair facility? Thanks!
Beckman is no longer a company. It was absorbed into Wavetek, which then apparently disappeared into a Meterman/Amprobe jungle. Professional repair cost would be several times the price of a new DMM. If it isn’t something simple like dirty switch contacts, it could be a fault in the AC converter circuit, possibly an op-amp or one of those tantulum caps. Sorry I don’t have a schematic for this model so I can’t be very specific.
Thanks! I appreciate your wisdom! I will look into a new meter.
PS Did I remember you saying the schematic for the HD140 was like the HD110? Mine is not the Industrial Model I guess because it only has Beckman HD140 printed below the display.
Somewhere along the line, “Beckman” became “Beckman Industrial”, so I think the presence of the word “Industrial” on the front relates to manufacturing date more than anything else.
The HD140 is a 4-1/2 digit design based on the Intersil 7129. The 110, and other similar models, are 3-1/2 digit designs based on the Beckman 270-100 chip. So the schematics are probably quite different.
I have a Beckman CT-233 with all the trimmings leather case and includes the CT clamp on and a host of Probes. Also in the leather case is the HD140. I am looking to
get it repaired. The HD140 does not come on when you turn it on. When I first got it
the case wood get warm to the touch and that was it. One of the sites had an estimated repair cost based on repair of other units at $184.oo Does anyone know a respectable repair shop that can repair the HD140? at a reasonable cost? Free evaluation? I get
leary about Free anything. There isn’t “no free lunch”
I have a Beckman Industrial HD130B I can’t get the battery out. I have removed all screws ? and I can’t raise circuit board to get to the battery? It says to release battery remove 15A fuse? Any suggestions? Thanks
Not familiar with that model, but it’s probably like this HD110 I have where the large HRC fuse obstructs the battery compartment. In which case, remove the two short self-tapping screws at the bottom of the circuit board near the input jacks. Then remove the two long diagonally-opposed self-tapping screws that go through the rotary switch assembly. Don’t worry, the switch assembly will stay together because there are two more screws on the front side holding it together. Pull the board assembly straight up, which will give access to the battery. The switch shaft disengages without having to do anything special, just line it back up during re-assembly.
Any idea where I can buy a replacement fuse for the 2A fuse in my 140HD?
I have a Beckman HD110 from 1983, still in use, another HD110T (T = K-type thermocouple input) that I bought new in box recently on eBay, basically a 34 year old, brand new meter, and an HD140 I bought with slight use, but no manual.
One thing I learned over the years is to very lightly snug the case and circuit board screws, then back them off a scant 1/8th turn, this keeps from cracking and splitting the plastic posts.
Anyone have a source for an HD140 user’s manual? Even BAMA doesn’t have any of these.
Question…what is the part name of the black square below the white rectangle marked with a plus and minus sign in two corners and the infinity sign on other two corners? I am looking for the continuity beeper as mine has stopped working on my Beckman Industrial HD 130. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
I meant to say two sine wave symbols not infinity symbols
hi what year did beckman hd 153 multimeters arrived onto the marlet
hi i think beckman is execellent gear ive used beckman 3010 29 years ago when i did my apprentice ship and they work fine my hd153 model is still going strong
hi iam looking for info on beckman hd11ot multimeters