A look inside the Craftsman 82003 DMM. Also sold as the Extech EX505. Manufactured by CEM (Shenzhen Everbest Machinery Industry Co.) This particular unit is non-functional.
Update #1: The ‘swelled’ capacitors shown in the above photographs turned out to be just the plastic wrappers, not the cans themselves. So it has that going for it…
Update #2: This Semico CS7721CN is apparently pin-for-pin compatible with the 100-pin Fortune Semi FS9721. The crooked 14-pin SMD component is an ES636 Cyrustek RMS converter, and was the root cause of the malfunction. Some sort of fault in the chip was pulling the analog ground below Vss. Removing the chip restored all functionality except AC volts and current.
The build quality of this meter seems to be a mixed bag of acceptable to “Were they teaching kids how to solder?” Do you have any idea why it looks like they hand soldered some of the surface mount parts? It would appear that the capacitors are as poorly made as the meter, ugh.
It is a shame it is such a poorly made meter as it seems to have a wide range of features if they are accurate. After seeing the build quality I would not have much faith in its’ readings.
I just took my multimeter to sears and exchanged it for another one the plastic dial broke off
where do you get parts for 82003 meter? I need selector parts, internal piece with the 7 contactors on it. The shoulders sticking up in the center piece that contact the front selector knob are breaking off. I would really appreciate some help here to get parts. Thank you, email@example.com
The selector switch on my Craftsman 62003 also broke off. I tried to get parts from Extech/Flir, but since it was Craftsman they would not help. I ended up potting a #4-40 machine screw in the hole in the switch with JB-Weld. I cut the head off the #4 screw and flattened the end that went into the switch – the center of the switch is hollow. Before I potted the screw I filed the end of the plastic switch flat just above the groove for C-clip. I had a single #4-40 nut that I JB-welded at the same time as I potted the screw. The nut was flush with backside of the switch that I filed. The points on the nut must point to the top of the meter. I drilled out the rotary contact switch so the #40 screw would fit through it. After the screw/nut bond was cured, I used another nut to pull the screw and nut through the rotary contact switch then removed the nut and used side cutters to cut off the extra screw length. So far so good. I have pictures.
Hey, I just came upon this, I have the same problem with mine. can you share the pics?
Cual es el valor de la resistencia R37?