This 3½-digit 2000 count manual-ranging heavy-duty multimeter is an interesting example of mid-80s technology. With an impressive safety-yellow thick sturdy o-ring and gasket-sealed case, it looks like it could survive a drop test with the only damages being to the floor it lands on. Ironically, the most serious damage to be repaired was not electronic, but a broken internal screw post, perhaps due to age and over-tightening.
It arrives in malfunctioning condition, flashing random numbers on voltage ranges, and alternating between random numbers and ‘OL’ on any resistance range. A simple IPA cleaning of the LCD-main chip assembly restores functionality. In addition, a precision resistor was found to have a broken lead, and some questionable soldering was cleaned up.
Other interesting facts and observations about the Beckman HD110:
- The highest voltage ranges are 1500VDC and 1000VAC. It is not CAT-rated since it pre-dates the standard.
- Battery life is specified at an impressive 1500 hours. The meter only draws 282μA in DCV mode and 331μA in ACV mode.
- The continuity tester includes an omega (Ω) LCD annunciator.
- The continuity tester only emits a short beep upon initial connection and not a continuous tone. The threshold is very high at around 500Ω for the 200Ω range, indeed it will indicate continuity even while displaying ‘OL’.
- The smaller fuse is inaccessible without removing the circuit board.
- The 9V battery is supposed to be accessible by just removing the cover and the large fuse, but is essentially impossible to remove and re-install without also loosening the circuit board.
- The tilt stand is remarkably fragile compared to the rest of the case. It works well, however, and can be re-positioned as a hanger.
- Later versions of the model have been sold with Wavetek, Meterman, and possibly Amprobe branding.
DMMCheck calibration check results for this Beckman HD110:
|AC||5V||5.55||nominal for non-TRMS|
|1mA||1.112||nominal for non-TRMS|
|Ohms||100Ω||100.3||0.3 with leads shorted|
Thanks for the teardown! One of my very few non-Fluke meters is a “Caterpillar” branded Beckman like this one. I work in the equipment industry (but not for Caterpillar) so I had to have it, even if it isn’t a Fluke.
There’s just something about heavy-duty equipment that comes in safety yellow with black lettering. Tim the Toolman Taylor would be proud. Grunt, grunt…
Just found your teardown of the beckman HD110. I have had a non-working one for a few years (I couldn’t bring myself to junk it) and finally got time to look at it today. It had the numbers rolling thing. I cleaned all points of contact on the display and it is as good as new. BTW the foam insulation on the thick film resistor must be original. Mine has it too and it’s never been “repaired” before today. Thank you for the info!!
Sir I worked at Beckmen Industrial building those muti – meters
from picking the kits, working the wave guild, cutting the leads off
each circuit board after they when though wave machine on programming then they heat stressed put in a room were temperatures etc.
I still have one that I never used memories working there.
That was one great place to work.
We lost a contact for Army green, desert colors etc that was to going to supply Military that when thing started going down hill.
They started laying off people so I guit.
Can you tell me if the HD-110 can be used with a RF probe.
The HD110 has an input impedance of 22 Meg and will not work with RF probes such as a Fluke 85RF, unless an external shunt is used to bring the impedance down to the 10 Meg that the probe expects.
I’m new at this so I’m not sure what a external shunt is or is it something I can purchase. If you could point the way for me I would be thankful. Also do know where
I can purchase or obtain a copy of the manual.
A shunt is just a resistor in parallel with the meter inputs, in this case 20Meg or so, to bring the impedance down to about 10Meg, if that is indeed what your RF probe expects.
I don’t know where to obtain a real Beckman manual, but the one for the later Wavetek/Meterman version might suffice. Note that these newer versions specify 10Meg input impedance. The older Beckman unit I have pictured in this post is definitely 22Meg though.
I found your article on the Beckman HD110 very useful.when repairing mine.mine is slightly different it does not have the big fat fuse or a buzzer in it.is it earlier or a later model.I checked every thing in the article but still have a unstable last digit on mains mesurements.dc is o/k
Mains voltage is constantly fluctuating so I wouldn’t use that to judge whether the meter can give a stable AC reading.
Hi thanks I did wonder if it could be that.the digits do see to react a lot faster than most meters.thanks again for your advice.N.Clark.Bristol
Hi are there any spare parts for the Beckman HD 110.The control shaft on my HD110 has broken it is grey in colour and T shaped one end.is there any chance I can buy one,thank’s. N.Clark
I am not aware of any sources of spare parts other than old units you may find at flea markets, hamfests, eBay, etc. Fortunately a lot of different Beckman models seem to share a common mechanical design, so the mechanical/structural parts are interchangeable.
I’ve been using a 110 for more than 15 years, and it was used when I picked it up back then, still works great. Mine has a HV probe which can measure up to 40kv.
Hi thanks for the info,I have a few beckman meters but they all work.so I can’t break them.I will keep looking on the internet.the plastic seems to be breaking down on these old meters.thanks again .N Clark
I’m new to your site,, what I’m looking for is a beckman hd110 w/ amp clamp and temp probe ,, also mine came in a box like case with different leads and miscellaneous ends to leads.. I’m in the A/C- refrigeration field and i really want that meter again,,,mine was stolen long ago and i think it was the best meter ever made…..ya think you can help me get one,, new i paid almost 500.00 in 92,,,,,,,,,,,,,thank you,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,Pete L
I have one everything you need.
I’ve had my HD110 since 1986 and it’s still working great. I dropped it from the top of a 100′ tower shortly after I got it. It bounced off of about three different steel railings on it’s way to the ground. When I got to it. the display was bouncing all over the place so my company sent it in for me. A week later the original was back and working perfectly fine ever since then.
This is on tough meter.
In an effort to help an automotive tech buddy who owns a Beckman Industrial
HD100, I, in searching for a resource for fuses I came upon this page from Mr. ModemHead. Is there anyone who can advise me as to what are the 2 fuses the HD 100 uses and where can they be found, such as Radio Shack maybe. Thanks in advance for all replies.
The HD100 models I’ve seen only have one 2A 600V fuse. This info should be embossed on the back of the meter. It is a ceramic-bodied 6mm x 26mm cartridge. An identical fuse may be hard to obtain. A more common fuse of the same size is the AGX 2A 250V glass-bodied fuse. Even these fuses are not likely to be found at Radio Shack, because they’re shorter than the standard 32mm glass fuse. But they are available on-line. If you use that fuse, the meter will not retain it’s original safety ratings, but at least it should be over-current protected. BTW, a blown fuse will not prevent the meter from turning on or measuring voltage and ohms.
As for repair, this model is practically an antique and you would be hard-pressed to find an economical repair service. I’m sure a new DMM would cost less.
Thanks for the prompt reply. I will share your response with my buddy. The discussion of the meter arose from my telling him that I was having a parasitic drain on my 92 Volvo 240, and if I could locate the fuse to get the meter working he would trouble shoot the problem. Its not the only meter he owns I am sure. I will try getting the alternative fuse you fuse you suggested.
You may be in luck. If you’re in the US, check eBay for item #350827062580. A 5-pack of original Beckman Industrial 2A ceramic fuses for $5, shipped. (I have no connection to this seller, so I can’t vouch for them.) Otherwise, in searching for “AGX 2A 250V”, I see there are a number of reputable places to get a 5-pack of these for a reasonable price. Shipping costs more than the fuses. I got some through Amazon a couple years ago.
Dear Modemhead, the article was very interesting. I have had a Caterpillar version of this Beckman HT110 since about 1991. I had to sent back during the warranty period for repairs and have not used it much since. The problem I have had with it is it does not zero out in the voltage modes or in the OHM mode with the leads shorted together. I have tried to clean the LCD contacts and that did not help. I can open up the meter and shift the display or tap the meter on my hand and get it to zero out for a while but won’t stay there. Do you have ant suggestions? Thanks Richard
The high-impedance circuitry in a DMM is very susceptible to PCB contamination that leads to current leakage, so it’s important to clean everything with 91% or higher isopropyl alcohol (IPA) and allow to dry. It may sound like an overly simple fix, but it usually clears up this type of problem, as long as you don’t create any bigger problems during the disassembly/assembly process.
Unfortunately, this particular meter design is difficult to deal with because of the way the main measurement chip is attached to the board, and the rotary switch with inaccessible and fragile contacts. Best advice is to clean everything the best you can (including the surfaces of the circuit boards), while being very careful not to mangle the switch contacts or break any old brittle plastic pieces.
Modemhead should I clean the entire PC boards or just the area that the display mount to. I did not clean the rubber display isolators. Thanks Richard
Yes, try to clean the entire PCB board. I recommend an old toothbrush with paper towels to soak up the excess. If you float any contaminates up with the IPA, you want to remove them and not let it just dry back onto the board.
The LCD side of the stack-up is not likely to be a problem if the display looks OK. But the bottom side with the main chip and the two little connector strips does need to be cleaned. After cleaning, do not handle them with your fingers, use tweezers. There are several different designs of these connector strips, and some of them can be very finicky, requiring that you try them in various positions until they work.
I wish I could give you some magic words, but this Beckman design really is a bit of a pain to deal with. But I have had success in reviving quite a few of them with just a good cleaning procedure.
Greetings Mr. ModemHead,
I came across your website in a attempt to find out some info for my Beckman HD-110. My meter needs repair, if my memory is correct, the readings are not correct. Ay suggestions would be helpful from you and and your followers!
Sorry I missed your comment earlier… If you scan through this blog you’ll find I mention cleaning things with isopropyl alcohol (IPA) as a first step with most any repair. On the Beckman models like the HD-110 with the big rotary switch, it is important to disassemble and clean the “stack-up” of the LCD, two sets of elastomeric connectors, and the main processor chip held together with a pressure clip. However this can be a hard job, because the old plastic parts can crack and break, and it requires a bit of patience and a soft touch to disassemble and re-assemble without causing more problems.
Do you provide repair service for the Beckman HD110?
DMM repair is just a hobby for me, so no repair service. Advice is free though, and sometimes worth about that much.
What would be wrong with my Beckman HD110 as it doesn’t show correct values on AC.
When measuring main voltage (230 V) it shows 175V on the 1000 V range and 180 V on the 200 V range.
We have a Beckman HD 110. We are needed a replacement fuse. It is an inch long and 1/4″ wide. Also, it looks like it is a 2A. The best I can read on it, it also says PVM 400 112 I can’t see where I can order a replacement. Do you know where I can get one or a substitute? Also, do you know the voltage for this fuse? Any information would be appreciated.
Hi Mr Modemhead.more advice please. I am repairing a Fluke8024a and have found the interconnect ribbon connecting the two boards has disengrated.is it possible to solder separate wires between the two boards.Or is there another way.The segments are very close together.Have you come across this problemThanks. N.Clark
Hi Mr. ModemHead, I have a caterpillar 6v7070, and the issue with it, it´s that it seems to work fine measuring AC-DC, but when I try to measure resistance, at first it shows 0L, then it just shows random numbers, ranging from 1.5 to 150 ohms, and when I put the probes on the resistor ends it goes down to 0. I hope you could help me, I´m kind of desperate here.
Just finished refurbishing my Beckman HD 110 T (thermocouple) per your great instructions . Bought it new around 1986-7 and it worked flawlessly until a month ago, random numbers on AC scales. It now looks AND works like new. Still have thermocouple and a 1000A clamp on amp probes. Both work perfectly. send email and I’ll send a picture.
Also have a older Tech 310 that has a half black diplay but can be used for parts. Display parts are the same except it does not the peice that holds the split stand off post stiff . It still worked when I took it apart. (Free)
I also own a Beckman 310, the only thing wrong is broken standoff that hold the LCD assembly in place, display comes and goes. If you still have the meter available, I would be interested to repair my own.
I took the liberty of forwarding your email address to RexB.
Thank you Mr. modemhead I appreciate your help, will keep you posted.
I work in a hospital just north of sac. ca.town called marysville,is there a vendor close to me where I might purchase a set of test probes for my HD110T tester?
need test leads for a HD110T tester
i have a beckman hd110 that the numbers in the display don’t all show correctly. Only half of the zero will display and others do the same with missing pieces. Any advice?
First order of business is to disassemble the LCD/main chip stack and clean everything with IPA (strong isopropyl alcohol). It requires care not to break any of the aging plastic bits. Try to maintain the elastomeric connectors in their original position and orientation.
You may be interested to know that Amprobe currently list an HD110C meter which, as you say, is a later version of this – probably the last surviving descendant of the famous Beckman rotary switch manual ranging design. Interestingly, it has an AC/DC button for both voltage and current so only has an 18 position switch as opposed to 28 positions on this one.
It would be interesting to see what’s inside, if you ever get your hands on one.
They also do an HD160C which is autoranging.
Funny you should say that, I recently acquired an Amprobe HD110C. Internally, it has no similarity at all with the old Beckman HD110. It has an extraordinarily loud beeper, IP67 and CAT IV 1000V ratings, and is VERY sturdy. Nice industrial-type tool. The AC/DC button is a push-on/push-off type switch so the unit “remembers” the last setting, which is handy.
Of note also is the Wavetek/Meterman-branded HD110. Externally, it looks almost identical to this Beckman HD110, except that the LCD digits are much bigger. Internally it has a more modern design based on a 40-pin DIP ICL7126 (lo-power 7106) and a compact rotary switch directly on the PCB.
Then there’s the Beckman RMS225, the Wavetek HD160, and the Wavetek/Meterman RMS225A. The first two are almost identical, the latter is very different inside but has an identical “menu” system for features. Haven’t laid my hands on an Amprobe HD160C, so I’m not sure how it fits in, except for the model number similarity.
I have 2 Beckman HD110 multimeters both of them in need of the “push on knob” for the “range and function” selector switch. The knob “shaft end” that pushes on the stem of the selector switch has broken off. Most likely due to age of the plastic. Could you tell me where I might find a replacement for that “knob”, any help you can offer would be appreciated. Many thanks – John R Conley Jr
Dear Mr Modemhead …I bought a new HD 110T in 1990 it came with amp clamp and temp probe – 2 sets of leads
All kinds of different clips too in a large hardwall case. I paid somewhere around 500+ ? Maybe more like 600. It was stolen in 2000. The only repair I ever needed was the multi function knob shaft stripped… PLEASE EMAIL WHERE TO BUY ANOTHER ONE WITH ALL THE BELLS & WHISTLES !! I am in the HVA\C-R FIELD ..plus I repair so much more. When it was gone itfelt like I lost my right hand..THANKS…….Pete
To lindy’s refrigeration:
I have a beckman hd110t in perfect working order with temp probe, ac/dc current probes, test leads, large case and manuals. Please let me know if you are interested.
Bonjour je suis à la recherche de la notice BECKAMN INDUSTRIAL HD10.Comment puis je la trouver ou l’acheter. ou encore la télécharger.
Hi Mr. Modemhead,
Great site and Great info! I just fixed my recently aquired $15.00 Beckman Industrial HD 110 T, with the help of your tutelage. Got the case and a pair of good Fluke leads with it.
It wouldn’t “lockon” in any setting. It would “hunt” several digits, depending on the setting, ohms being the worst.
Instead of having a foam block behind the Caddock pack, mine has a small screw through the little hole next to the negative battery solder pad. That gave me pause,, it is threaded thru one of the big solder pads. Last cal’d by Transcat/EIL in ’98. I figured they did it and no “ogre” work in mine, so I left it in.
Again, thanks for a great site.
I have a Beckman HD100 that needs service. I used it for about 20 years before it was submerged in a flash flood. I pulled the battery out and left the case open in a zip-lock bag with some of those silica gel moisture absorbent packs and forgot about it.
It sat for about 15 more years in that condition. It was dry & corrosion free when I ran across it out recently. I put a new battery in & it works, but it’s kind of flaky.
I’m getting varying voltage & resistance readings with no test leads attached, and sometimes when reading a voltage all of the LCD elements are visible with the actual reading just slightly darker. I have to turn the meter so it’s just the right angle to read it. The only other problem is that the rubber O-ring for one of the screws that hold the back on deteriorated & is no longer there.
You said in response to another comment that you do not do repairs for others, but you will offer advice.
Can you advise me of someone who would do a good job servicing a Beckman HD100?
I’m sorry I don’t know where you can get your Beckman repaired. With the wide availability of inexpensive DMMs, such repairs are just not cost-effective.
I let the battery go dead on my HD 110 and when I replaced it the display reads 188.8.131.52 on all scales, I don’t have a manual and am looking for a quick fix, it did work very well before the battery change.
Kind of a late post, (as yours was over 2yrs ago) but I just changed the battery in my HD 110T today and it did the same thing with the display reading 184.108.40.206. I loosened the case screws a little and it now reads correctly. My guess is tightening the case screws too much twists the board just enough to cause the bad readings.
I found this site when looking for p/ns for the proper fuses to get the ammeter side for my father’s HD110 working. I still had a good original spare for the one behind the battery behind the pole, but the Beckman site wasn’t much use for finding reasonably priced replacements. The round cubby next to the screw post on the side of the 10A input (on the left looking in from the back) holds the spare 2A fuse.
Two things I can add for you:
1. The foam next to the resistor on yours is definitely not original equipment. (image 23)
2. The little fuse behind the battery came with a pull strap to remove the fuse just like old transistor radios used to have one to help remove the rectangular 9v from the tight rectangular battery compartment. No need to remove the circuit board.
There was a fairly thick plastic “do not remove” plastic sheet to shield the battery case from the fuse and input jacks. Remove the big 15A fuse and the battery. Pull the sheet up out of the way and tug firmly on the strap and the fuse comes right out.
Thanks for the information. You helped get this 33 year-old meter fully operational again.
I have one HD110 that had problems switching ranges and sometimes even modes. I checked for cut traces, damaged components and I thought the jumper on the top edge of the board should be connected, so I shorted it with jumper wire just in the via, no soldering or anything. Turns out only one of both jumpers can be connected at a time, or so I think as it now shows nothing on the screen on all switch positions. Please try to help as I really want to bring it back to life. It’s the version with only one fuse holder and no buzzer.
My HD110 just shows random numbers in all modes. I hate to toss it. As a retired tech I would like to attempt repair before I give up. Any recommendation as what to look for?
All Beckman repairs should start with a thorough clean-up. Use IPA (>90% isopropyl alcohol) on the elastomeric connectors for the LCD and main chip. Use compressed air for the rather delicate range switch leafs. In my limited experience, this clears up most of the funny readings and odd behaviors on these meters.
I have two Beckman 110 meters. I cannot find the operation manuals for either meter.
What leads do I use to read 0-100 ma ?
TRINITY POWER SYNERGIES
To measure 0-100mA, plug the leads into the “COM” and “A” jacks, and set the dial to the “200m” range. The display will read in milliamps.
I worked for Beckman Industrial as head of manufacturing operations from around 1988 on through the Wavetek aquisition of that Beckman division around 1995 and hung around Wavetek for a couple years longer.
We had a ball building the yellow bricks and a pile of other products. We would take the HD meters and throw them around the parking lot like a football testing them to see if could break them. No such luck. Standard drop tests of 36″ were nothing for these meters.
A number of folks ask how to get their meter reading to settle down or zero-out. The answers are correct. Clean the boards with a high-grade alcohol. Don’t be afraid to scrub them down with a toothbrush. Let them dry completely. They usually come back to life. This applies to most all Beckman meter models. The problem was due to the manufacturing process. They were subject to drift off over time due to moisture absorbtion on the circuit board. I would say that units produced sometime after 1990 were less affected by moisture due to a change in the soldering process. We eliminated a flux that tended to absorb moisture in higher humidity environments over time and improved the board cleaning process. But, even the newer units would, to a much lesser degree, be affected by moisture absorption on the board. Scrubbing them with alcohol helps drive the moisture off the board.
Everywhere I’ve worked since my days at Beckman Industrial have Beckman meters in their stock of test instruments built upwards to 30 years ago or longer. We put a lot of effort in making them bullet-proof and impervious to damage, but if you asked me then if companies would still be using them 30 years later I would have said you were nuts.
Quite proud of my time there. Great people, great product and an organization absolutely driven to creating a high quality product.
Thanks for sharing that Ralph! My first “real” DMM (ie. non-Radio Shack) was a Beckman. Model 310 I think. I regret tossing it out many years ago, before I became interested in repairing such things.
Thank you for your post on the HD110 LCD issue….I found an old unit in an abandon work tool box and it had the problem as you described. I disassembled and reassembled the LCD chip holder 3 times, but the 3rd was a charm. Working my way farther down each time (and my nerve) , the third time included removing the strips, cleaning board and strips with alcohol and “WaLa” the LCD began working correctly. ….Thanks again for the guidance .
I have been given one of these but the charger is missing. Could someone be so kind at to let me know what charger would work with this unit?
This particular unit is powered with a regular 9V battery (PP3), and does not require a charger. I’m not aware of any model variations that were rechargeable.
My rechargeable HD100 is is also missing it’s charger and I couldn’t find any information on it or the factory fitted NiCad battery so I cut out the old NiCad and fitted a PP3 in its place, works fine.
I can only guess, perhaps the rechargeable version was specially made possibly for the armed forces? looking inside the case the battery compartment has been carefully milled out post molding to better accommodate the NiCad battery, the decal on the front under the charger socket also states external charger and is quite obviously a factory made item.
Boom!! Thanks, modemhead! My HD quit working back in early 2000. It now works like brand new. Thanks to this page & the photos!
First time I tried it I had no change, but the second time I took the toothbrush idea. That was the trick!! Thanks again for creating your page for the Beckman’s. It’s like finding my old friend again seeing this thing work again.
I work at Beck-man Industrial In San Diego,Ca in early 1990’s building those meter.
Even if the pay was low I greatly enjoyed working there.
I was trying to escape the layoff ship yards water front.
I greatly enjoy the family type settings there at Beck-Man back then.
I watch every part of the meter being build-ed from picking the parts to assembly to wave guild solder etc. like it was yesterday.
It seem that when they if I remember things there was a military contact to be had with different colors army green to name one. but it fall though we didn’t get it the contract they started laying off good people so I didn’t not like it so I when back to the ship yards which was paying six dollars more.
If was a long ride from Little Italy to where Beck-man was located.
But I enjoyed the people the leadership everybody were so nice I loved it.
The position I wanted was Electronic Tech.
I know with my U.S. Navy training if I wanted it I could get it.
If any body knows of anyone that has any old pictures of the employees at that time
I would greatly like to have some copies
Edward H Crutcher
I have a Beckman HD110 that I have never used 🙁
That being said, I am working on a school project where I am making electricity from a small dam using a tiny (hobby) electric motor with two wires (black and red).
I figure that I am going to turn the electric motor to get DC current and hopefully it will be enough to light a single (non-led) Christmas light.
What settings should I use to test the output from the “DC Generator” (the tiny motor that will be turning)?
Thanks so MUCH!
Hello I worked at Beck-men Industrial in the early 1990’s and did everything from
picking the kits out of storage to massing the boards covering areas on the electronic board were solder was not wanted then assembly ladies would place the electronic components on to the board the wave soldered machine, then washed and cooled and dried then cut the
legs from components off transistor, resistor etc.
then connected to 9 volt battery to see if it worked on to a computer work station test each voltage etc. function weather test room lab heat and cold.
Very friendly place to work Veteran looking to fine an escape from Ship Yards if this was an American Company whose working and standards where very high unfortunately a contract with one of the military branches did not come and all was lost.
Wanted to stay put did not like it when company started laying-off workers just did not like that so jumped back to ship yards and a eight dollar rise an hour rise in pay.
Anyone have pictures of the company party’s or barques from back then.
This was an American Dream Company.
Ruffian-Rd Carmount Mesa Ca
Thanks for your recollections of working at Beckman, Ed.
I just checked my HD110 against a voltage standard and it read 4.99 for a 5.0000 V standard. Pretty good for a 30 year old device that has never been calibrated. Resistance and current measurements were also all within a one or two digits of the standards.
Hi folks! So happy I found all of this. I started out as a young boy in love with radio shack. My first Walkie-talkie, 2 DMM’s and AA. Rechargeable batteries were purchased there. Fast forward my youth I started in the Elevator business in controller manufacturing and can’t remember what meters were used in the shop but the test simulator was cool! Next step was getting a job in the field to become a mechanic and there was my introduction to the Beckman 310B. I couldn’t believe it wasn’t auto ranging but soon learned that quality was why it was the chosen meter. I never got one and soon moved on to other company’s. Actually forgot about them and the other day while looking for another 20mg/hz scope there it was. A Beckman hd110! Paid $20 and it works great. So happy now. It’s like an old lost friend to be honest. Would anyone have a manual for it? Cheers folks
Correction it is a HD100. I only see one glass type fuse and is to be a 2amp 600volt rating. I see nothing else to protect the 10amp port. Question, are they using another type device to protect in 10amp mode?
No, these multimeters have no fuse at the high-current input, they’re from an era where people did not mistakes measuring current.
I have rehabilitated the zebra strips by soaking them in hot water, and gently flexing them. This has worked on three of these Beckman/Wavetek multimeters. The zebra strips get compressed with age and this brings them back to life.
They are an excellent multimeter in many ways – fast, low V ohms, low burden loss, AC is all better than the Flukes – but the overvoltage protection is not what you’d use on mains electrical systems over say 250VAC.
Thank you all so much for your expert advice and tips. I had a HD110 with symptoms of readout not stable and unable to give proper readings.
The solution was a combination;
First attempt involved cleaning the contacts of processor and display with alcohol and scrubbing contacts first with pencil eraser.
Scrubbing with pencil eraser and cleaning with alcohol was definite improvement but still not fully functional.
The advice to soak the zebra strips in hot water was part of second attempt and I believe the combination of cleaning again and soaking the strips was integral part of the second attempt being 100% success.
Thank you all again for useful tips and great information.
how to calibrate the temp probe on my hd110t and it reads 20 degrees to high.
I have a Tech 310, which I believe may be very close in circuit design to the HD110. I mistakenly contacted a high voltage flyback transformer in a TV and it damaged it. It has rolling numbers on voltage and resistance no longer operates. I love these meters. The sampling rate is such that it displays measurements immediately. I recently ordered a used HD110 from eBay and hope it is as good as my old TECH110. Do you think my HD110 may be salvageable?
Do you have any idea where Manuals for the Beckman RS232 Testers – Easy Bob range could be found.
I haven’t been able to find any anywhere.
Just pulled my Beckman HD110 out of storage. Working fine after a battery change in 2020!
I have a Wavetek HD110 that I have been using since 1997. Solid piece of equipment, all I do is replace the battery when it’s dead.
Mr. ModemHead, you helped save another one! I have the same model which came into my possession after my neighbor sadly passed away this year. It belonged to her late husband who passed away in 2013. Her family threw away so many treasure into the trash 🙁 but I managed to rescue this gem along with other items. It was covered in mice and bird droppings and had been out in the elements for years. I cleaned it up, installed a new battery but was disappointed it wasn’t reading correctly no matter how much I messed with the adjustment pot. I thought it was destined for the trash but I stumbled onto your site and I followed your procedure, cleaned up the contacts for the screen and it works flawlessly now. Thanks a million!
THANK YOU!!!! For with out you I would of never fixed my Beckman industrial 310. Display was going nuts flipping numbers all over the place. I read your post here and saw that it was a similar problem. So I clean the display and all the contacts put it back together and low and behold it works again. :)) BIG SMILE
Hello Mr. Modemhead…this is fantastic! I got into my Beckman HD130 in an attempt to repair the continuity buzzer/sound. Yours is different than mine but you gave me the confidence to try. I believe there is a blue diode that is the culprit. Any thoughts? Tks
I am having a problem with my Beckman HD110. There a readings in several switch positions with nothing connected to the meter. These are the readings that appear when in the following switch positions. Diode position – 1.293; 200 ohm position – 0L; 2K Position – .654; 20K Position – 0.65; 200K Position – 00.6; 2M Position – .000 and 20.0M Position – 0.00. Where should I look for the problem?
Beckman sold a Service Manual for the Heavy Duty Series Handheld Digital Multimeters , does anyone know where I can find a copy of he manual?
Mr. Modemhead: My HD130B 10 amp lead appears to end blindly to a via on the PCB. Can’t read 0-10 amps. Can it be missing a shunt?
I think I have my answer. It uses the 15 amp fuse as a shunt for the 10 amp scale. I’ve blown two of the expensive fuses so far so until that is resolved, won’t read on the 10 amp range.
I have a copy of a users manual, similar multimeter available elsewhere on-line if you need such.
Correction to my comment on the shunt for the 10 amp scale. The fuse is only for protection, not metering of a voltage drop. The shunt is on the PCB, standing up from it as a #14 wire wrapped in black plastic and soldered to the board at 4 places. That is the same area on mrmodemhead’s board, one of the photos above, that had been resoldered or experienced a reheat of the solder.
HI MR MODEMHEAD. : Can’t tell you how excited I am to have found your posts about the Beckman 110HD multimeter that I have had so long it seems like an old friend.
(Which It Is ! ) It has the common problem of not being able to zero out anymore. Sounds like a good cleaning is in order. Could you tell me if there is any videos available on disassembly and cleaning of the contacts ? I am older and a picture is worth a thousand words. Also where can I get the 91% alcohol you speak of in your posts ?
Any help you can give me would be greatly appreciated. Thank You some much for your time and response. Could you please respond to my e-mail address of :
firstname.lastname@example.org. Thanks Again. John
Hi I have just removed the rechargeable battery and charge socket on my hd100ex.and replaced the battery with 9v.It now works fine.Have you come across this problem.The original batteries are not available any more.and do not hold there charge.Mr N Clark bristol england.